Romania has a new museum of contemporary art in a giant palace built by dictator Nikolai Ceausescu. “The building is monstrous, a megalomaniacal blend of baroque, neo-Gothic and modernism, sprawling over the middle of Bucharest. Its cruel facade is lined with row upon row of windows: Romanians call them “the big eye of Ceausescu”. The critic Ami Barik, meanwhile, describes the Palace as “architectural pornography … meant to exhibit the organs of power in colossal erection”. Twenty per cent of the city, including some of its oldest churches, was torn down to make way for it. Workers died in near-forced labour conditions; others are said to have been killed to protect its secrets. No wonder Bucharest’s inhabitants view the House/Palace with a respect tinged with bitterness.”