The Iraqi National Symphony, celebrated in the days after the US-led invasion as a hallmark of Iraqi culture, and later as a symbol of bravery in the face of the insurgency, is continuing to play. But their concerts are like nothing any other professional orchestra could possibly conceive of. “Before the U.S.-led invasion, the INSO would advertise concerts in the media, especially on television. Now this happens by word of mouth, with organizers phoning a list of supporters or putting up posters in music colleges… No time is given for the event because both the musicians and the guests have to navigate police and army checkpoints and blocked roads.”