After years of delays, Venice’s La Fenice opera house, which was burned down eight years ago, has been rebuilt and reopened. “Standing amid the charred rubble on the morning of January 30 1996, the then mayor of Venice, Massimo Cacciari, pledged that La Fenice would be rebuilt “com’era, dov’era” (as it was, where it was). And, within the bounds of the possible and desirable, that is exactly what has been done.”