“For Northerners, the history of the Civil War seems pretty much settled. [But] things are interpreted more ambiguously here in what once was the capital of the Confederate States of America… Institutions here — the Museum of the Confederacy and the American Civil War Center — argue that the war should be seen, at least in part, from the perspective of the losing side, and that such understanding need not be completely derailed by the moral outrage of slavery.”