“The French and Italians have nicknamed it the ‘snail.’ The Norwegians have plumped for ‘pig’s tail,’ the Germans ‘monkey’s tail,’ and the Chinese ‘little mouse.’ The Russians think of it as a dog, and the Finns as a slumbering cat. … Yet the Museum of Modern Art in New York has deemed it to be such an important example of design that the @ has been officially admitted to its architecture and design collection.”