Michael Morpurgo on the In Flanders Field Museum in Ypres, Belgium: “The visitor stands under a vast hanging cylinder gazing up at the faces of Europe: soldiers and civilians, victims all, about to be overwhelmed by violence. To cheering crowds, men march off to war in bright antique costumes, in helmets that would better suit Hans Christian Andersen’s Brave Tin Soldier. And waiting for them, half-hidden in the corner, are the machine gun and the wire, the flamethrower and the gas masks.”